Royal Gwalior

The last trip of 2011. Hope my trip helps you plan yours and discover a little more of India. Have a great year ahead full of travel and discoveries.

A spur of the moment decision and lack of availability of hotel rooms in Benaras was how Gwalior came about. No regrets there, as just an hour an half flight hours from Mumbai is a city where you could choose to live in the chaotic, dusty, concrete present or fortified, palatial and royal past. I of course, chose the latter.

That the people here are hospitable, proud of their legacy and in love with the Scindia family, is an understatement. I now understand the tag line 'The heart of incredible India'.

The state tourism hotel where I stayed

The hotel organises city tour

Since most part of the Day 1 was over by the time I landed, there was not much action. Headed first to my hotel, Tansen Residency, run by Madhya Pradesh State Tourism Development Corporation Limited. MP though overshadowed by Kerala and Rajasthan, is one state where all tourism mechanisms work! The hotels run by the tourism board are spacious, clean, with no frills and affordable. One could log on to www.mptourism.com for online reservations.

Post checking into the hotel, a drive through the city and an evening visit to the fort for the sound and light show was etched out. These shows are held daily in Hindi and English after the fort closes down for the tourist walk throughs. At a nominal cost of Rs 75/-, Mr Amitabh Bachhan's voice guided me and another 100 odd history enthusiasts through the tumultuous past of the Gwalior Fort for 45 minutes.

Tucked in a heavy breakfast of aloo parathas and dahi and headed towards the Gwalior Fort once again on Day 2. Entry tickets are available for Rs 5/- and Rs 100/- for domestic and international tourists respectively.

Gwalior Fort is one of the largest forts in India and was built in the 8th century on the Gopachal Hill. it has seen several occupants : Kachhava Pals, Pratihars, Mughals, Tomars, Rana Jats and The East india Company.

Seeing around the Fort did take most part of the day. The must see places are as below.

Man Mandir Palace

Man Mandir Palace was Built by the greatest of Tomar ruler, Man Singh Tomar in 1508. There are 4 storeys to it, with two being underground and the circular prison. Raga Dhrupad was born within these walls.

Jauhar Pond

Jauhar Pond is the water body or tank where the Rajput women gave up their lives than have the conquerers lay their hands on them.

The unkempt Suraj Kund

Suraj Kund was the lake whose water was used to cure Raja Suraj Sen later known as Suraj Sen Pal of leprosy by Saint Gwalipa. Suraj Sen was the founder of Gwalior and he named the city after this saint. The kund currently is ill maintained and I almost passed it without giving it a second glance.

Saas - Bahu Temple

Saas - Bahu Temple is dedicated to Vishnu and consists of two structures with beautiful Hindu sculptures.

Teli ka Mandir

Teli Ka Mandir is the tallest structure within the fort and was built in 8th Century and dedicated to Vishnu. It got its name because it was built by the oil traders and oil pressers.

Gurudwara Data Bandi Chod

Gurudwara Data Bandi Chod was built in the memory of Sikh Guru Har Gobind Singh, who was imprisoned in the fort for two years by the Mughals. If you come in the afternoon, you could get to eat the langar like me. It was a simple but delicious meal of yellow rice with carrots, mixed dal, roti and gobi matar. Make sure your head is covered at all times and wash the utensils used and keep them in their designated places.

Entrance to Scindia School : Residential for Boys

Scindia School was founded in 1897 by late Maharaja Rao Scindia for the sons of the Maratha kings and nobles. It now has students from all parts of India. Visits to the school are not allowed but I had to get in to see a friend's name etched on the board of merit students.

Belgian chandelier in the palace

Entertaining room for state guests

Jai Vilas Palace grounds

Having done the Gwalior Fort at length, my next stop was Jivaji Rao Scindia Museum. This is actually a part of the Jai Vilas Palace where the Scindia family currently stay. It was a revelation of grandeur and lifestyle of the royalty. The palace and all its artefacts portray the wealth, opulence and great taste. i could live like that for sure and not complain about it!

Since the day was nearly over and light was fading, a decided stop at the state handicraft store, Mrignayanee was made. Went through yards and yards of sarees in bagh prints and returned to the hotel with my arms full of my passionate purchases - SAREES!

My Day 3 list read as follows:

Jain tirthankars on rock edifice

Gopachal Parvat is a collection of monolithic Jain Tirthankars on the edifice of the hill. These were made in the 15th century by the Tomar ruler, Dungar Singh. The tallest sculpture is about 42 ft high. Though there are steps cut out, the walk up is quite steep.

Gurjari Palace

Gurjari Mahal was built by Man Singh Tomar for his queen Mrignayanee. It has been converted into an archaelogical museum now and is very well maintained.

Tomb of Muhammad Ghaus

Tomb of Muhammad Ghaus was built by Akbar in the 16th Century for Muhammad Ghaus, a sufi saint and a musician. He is also known as the tutor to Tansen.

Tomb of Tansen

Tomb of Tansen is right next to Tomb of Muhammad ghaus, though much smaller. Tansen was a great musician and a courtier of Akbar. Tansen's son is buried here too.

Sun Temple

Birla Sun Temple did not impress me much because it is of no historical value and was built in the 90's by Mr. G D Birla. It is a look alike of the Konark Temple in Orissa.

Late Madhav Rao Scindia Memorial

Chattri or the memorial of the Scindia Dynasty, which was a peaceful haven and really green and well maintained. 

Tomb of Rani Lakshmibai is actually a great statue of Jhansi ki Rani in the midst of an artificial water body with greenery around. I did not take a picture as it only looked like a regular park with college students hanging around.

Handy tips

• Airport does not have pre paid taxis. Negotiation skills will come handy for hiring autorickshaws and private cars.
• Walking shoes are a must for sightseeing.
• Carry drinking water.
• You could shop for silk and cotton sarees, bedsheets, stoles, kurtas, glass bangles, gajak (made of jaggery and sesame seed).
• Entry tickets in most places are Rs 5 - 10, a fee of Rs 50 additional for carrying camera.
• Entry ticket to Man Mandir can be used for Teli ka Mandir and Saas Bahu Temple.
• Do not be adventurous with food. Order the tried and tested North Indian variety. McDonalds available.

Pearl Drop Island

I have been meaning to write about this long done trip but plain laziness has kept me away from it.

Sri Lanka is a great place to visit when a quick fire holiday planning needs to be done without the rigmarole of visa applications and long haul flights. And in the bargain you also get to see what the neighbouring country has been upto now that the LTTE is out of action.

This time round we wanted a luxurious vacation and not do the usual Kandy and Bentota or Nuwara Eliya.

We chose Hatton and Galle and Colombo of course for deplaning.

After a good nights rest at the Galle Face Hotel at Colombo, a road trip to the central hilly parts of Sri Lanka. Connections with hoteliers made it easy to get a reservation at the Tea Trails, Castlereagh Bungalow. Life out here gives you a first hand experience of the English life on the tea estates. Invisible but immaculate service, 5 course meals, walk through the tea estates, tea tasting at the factory, reading by the poolside, walking the trails, dressing for dinner and meeting other guests from all over the world over aperitifs and exchanging travel notes. Each bungalow has only 5-6 rooms, each bigger than average Mumbai homes, with the most luxurious bed and bath furniture and outfit which remind you of the colonial era.

A must visit if you are comfortable in your own skin, love the silence of the hills and don’t miss meeting homo sapiens at every turn.

The drive from Hatton Region to the coastal Galle downhill literally, made heady by stretches of aromatic Eucalyptus forest was longer than expected as we made pitstops every 15 minutes to take in the view and breathe in the fresh air. Stops were made to check the local markets and eat the local fare at non descript eating places. If you have children with you, be careful with the curries and sambals. Spices and peppers are the essence of life here!

Galle is a sleepy little town and the capital of the Southern province. With its natural harbor and scenic beauty, it is easily understandable why the Portuguese and Dutch fortified it.  The Galle Fort is one of the biggest forts till date built by Europeans in Asia. The Fort town boasts of a lighthouse, churches, Amangella Hotel and quaint houses with European windows and gables. When walking the bylanes, you would not have an inkling of the fact that you are Sri Lanka.

Our stay was outside the Fort , at The Fortress, a resort by the Koggala Beach. The impressive façade makes you impatient to take a look inside. This luxury hotel marries the indoors and outdoors with great designing and gives you immense sense of space even when the hotel is full. With state of the art rooms, a beautiful swimming pool, trees inhabited by naughty but friendly squirrels, a gorgeous ayurvedic Spa, well stocked bar and overflowing buffets, The Fortress is an ideal place whether holidaying alone, with someone special or with your family. The service though good is very in your face. You might need a break from the hotel staff checking up on you.

Ten days of luxury and far from the maddening crowd and memories of warm and simple people with a great cultural heritage and taste bud tickling spicy food. Money well spent!

Mumbai Streets before Diwali

In an otherwise gray landscape & seascape, I can forgive Mumbai during the festive season. The sights definitely pile up colour, texture and a spirit that is infectious.

Since the traffic generally kills you before and during Diwali, what with people shopping for Dhanteras, Choti Diwali, Lakshmi Pooja, Bhai Duj et all, decided to make a round of the markets first thing on a Sunday morning while the shoppers were still lolling in bed and the shopkeepers were dusting their wares & sprucing up their business place.

My colleague & friend from office, Vinita Advani, volunteered to take me around Santa Cruz & Khar market. The trip was excellent since not only were these places new to me but also the fact that though Vinita & I sit right next to each other at work, we hardly ever have time to catch up on a personal level.  So post catching up over a cuppa at Theobroma, Bandra, we took my daughter’s favourite mode of transport – the auto.

I am biased towards open markets in comparison to malls and the hi-fi shopping centers which are springing up everywhere every other day. These markets have so much more character and so much more to offer. …any thing that you can think of.

These shots are an attempt to capture the spirit of Diwali on Mumbai roads and more importantly the things that I love.  They are the handiwork of thousands of people in and around Mumbai and an important part of the economy of the country. The mithai shops & the teen patti sessions have been omitted since I am done with them, for now!

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